What happens at Crane Out

The crane operator will prepare the crane while several people prepare the lifting frame and hang the slings on it. 

The first boat out should be at the staging ready to be lifted. Two people are required to hold the fore and aft ropes while two people get on board to guide the slings into place. Before getting off the boat they will try to level it before it’s lifted. This ensures that it ends up reasonably level when it’s on the field.

When it’s lifted, two people will walk across the field to the required position holding the mooring ropes to control its rotation. 

The next boat should already be waiting near the staging and approach it when it’s clear. Two people will need to hold its ropes. Another member will be calling boats to the field in turn.

While that is taking place, the owner should be preparing the timbers (or other support) in order that the boat can be set down on its keel. 

It is assumed that the owner’s timbers have already been brought to the field and approximately placed in the correct spot according to the plan that will be provided before crane out date. You will be advised of the best way to position the timbers to support the keel. 

With the boat lowered close to the timbers they can be re-positioned, added to or adjusted as required. Experienced members will advise on this. The boat is then lowered onto the timbers so that the weight is taken on them but remains supported in the sling

The props are positioned by a minimum of four people, but ideally eight or more. 

This is because there is the prop to hold and often a piece of wood on top to protect the boat, and the prop screwed up to just steady the boat. 

It should not be screwed up so far that it starts to lift the boat off the timbers. 

Before letting the weight off the slings the boat will be checked to see that it’s reasonably level.  If not, the props can be adjusted to try and shift it. 

When the slings are let down they are released from the hooks on one side and dragged out from under the boat before being re-attached and moved back for the next boat. 

At all times, the movement of the crane is controlled by the crane supervisor. This is an experienced club member, and may be handed to another member when relief is required.

Once you are safely ashore, please lend a hand for the remaining boats.

Craning back in is slightly less onerous and rather quicker than craning out. 

For this reason we only require one crane but it has to be repositioned half way through. 

Crane and sling preparation is the same as for crane out. 

The slings are passed under the boat and attached to the hooks on the other side. This step requires four people. 

The crane will raise the slings and they will be guided by members to the best place under the keel. 

When everyone is clear from between boats the crane will raise the boat and swing it across to the river. Care needs to be taken when lifting the boats off the timbers as they tend to swing if the lifting hook is not precisely under the jib of the crane. This requires quick reactions from the two people holding the ropes. 

As the boat is lifted it is quite common for the small wooden blocks to get stuck to recently applied antifoul! These are quickly knocked off if spotted in time! 

The boat is then lowered into the water and the slings released. This usually requires four people. 

This is repeated until all boats from one crane area are in the water and the crane relocates to the other area and the process continues for the boats in that area.

This has been written with both new members and ‘old hands’ in mind. 

It represents my thoughts on good and not-so-good practices when it comes to supporting your boat on dry land. 

As such, it is not a strict ‘this is the way to do it’ directive, but more a guide to what I consider to be best practice, with comments regarding the suitability of certain items.

John Raper (Gandalf)

The boat will ideally be supported on stout timbers and steadied with adjustable props. 

A Freeman 22 was originally specified as weighing 1.6 tons, and the boats we crane out range up to 8 tons. That’s a lot of weight to support.

The timbers don’t need to be a great length, long sleepers are perfectly good enough.

However, when you’re crawling under the boat they are too heavy to move easily and require two people to handle them. 

Sleepers are generally too heavy, even in shorter lengths. 

You will also need some thinner timbers for adjustment purposes.

A stack of several timbers all in the same line makes for a rather unstable arrangement. 

It works,  but will it be able to withstand movement in high winds when the field is waterlogged and soft? 

Barrels are another common form of support, but we only allow these for the lighter boats. 

If you do use barrels, then make sure you have suitable timbers long enough to span the diameter of the barrel. 

Again, if you do use barrels or oil drums; it is essential they have holes drilled in them at the top & bottom to prevent them becoming buoyant in flood water.

Stacking the timbers ‘Jenga fashion’ makes for a stable support and helps spread the load.

Another consideration is the slant of the keel. 

It may be necessary to need more under the front to ensure water drains off the deck.

Rope handles stapled to one end are a great help when handling the timbers.

Additionally, stencilling your boat name on them is a good idea as well. 

By passing another rope through each handle will also enable you to tie them all to one of your props to prevent escape if the boat should float away. 

We also strongly suggest that the waterline sits about 1 metre above ground. 

Barrels without holes drilled have been known before to allow boats to drift across the field during flood!

 So, we’ve set the boat down on some stout timbers, now we need to steady it. 

For the smaller boats, four props are required, larger boats should have six or more. 

My preferred style of support is the angled and braced ready-made kind. 

Mine have quite a long threaded section making for a considerable range of adjustment, and a swivelling, rubber-faced pad  at the top. 

I made a simple wooden base to help spread the load with a blue strap around it.  That’s rather belt and braces – it’s to prevent the two opposite props sliding apart. 

It’s quite common to see a chain between the props with a tightening buckle to apply a small amount of tension.

Acrow-type props are common. However, they are not the easiest to install. 

If free-standing, they can fall about and generally require three or four hands to install as both ends are free and the top wooden pad needs to be held as well. 

These are also the worst for corrosion, making adjustment very difficult. 

They also have a loose pin, retained by a wire, which gets in the way when adjusting. 

A similar kind is bolted to a wooden base. This is easier to install as it doesn’t rotate while adjusting it, but still requires several hands to hold everything.

Make sure that the adjustment on the props is adequate for your boat. 

A rounded-shaped hull can cause an issue. 

If too close to the bottom of their adjustment, additional timber will be required to get the hull at the required height. 

It may take a couple of years to get the balance right between timbers and prop height. 

Take a look at other similar boats and measure the timbers and prop heights. 

This is to prevent the boat your drifting away if the water should flood to above the waterline.

It may look odd, but is worth it & also recommended to hammer the anchor into the ground in readiness. 

You will need a ladder to access your boat

• I used to hang one from Gandalf’s fender cleats but now I chain it to the props for security. Many people take along a collapsible version. 

Lubricate the threads on your props

• I’ve taken to carrying a can of spray lubricant during crane-out because all those Acrow props are beginning to get to me. 
• Before I take mine to the field I give them a quick spray so I know they’re ready.